All Cook Must Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.

Adam Clark
Adam Clark

Elena Vance is a passionate esports journalist and former competitive gamer, specializing in UK gaming culture and industry insights.